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Washing machines have come a long way, and are an essential part of a smooth-running household. When there’s a problem with the washing machine, laundry chaos ensues. Choose the right washing machine by knowing the pros and cons of each type, and what features are a must-have for your family.

Top-Loading Washers

Top-loaders were the standard home washing machine for a long time, and many people still use them. They have a door that opens on the top for loading, and an agitator sits in the middle of the wash tub. This agitator moves the clothes through the water to get them clean.

One advantage of top-loaders is price. They are the most economical choice among washing machines by far. Also, the door does not lock on these models so users can throw in forgotten garments after the cycle has started.

Unfortunately top-loading washers typically don’t get the best ratings for effectiveness, when compared to front loaders, or the newer high-efficiency top loaders. If getting clothes as clean as possible is important, you may need to consider other options. Also, top-loaders use the most amount of water, and the agitator can be tough on clothes, sometimes causing stretching and pulling. Washing heavy or bulky items can cause balance problems in the machine as well.

Front-Loading Washers

Aside from the obvious difference in the door location, front-loaders differ from top-loaders in that there is no agitator. Rather than pulling clothes through the water, the clothes are pulled up and dropped down into the water repeatedly. Because the tub does not have to fill up with enough water to cover the clothes for washing and rinsing, front-loaders use about forty percent less water. Because less water is used, less detergent is needed as well (using high-efficiency detergent is recommended).

With no agitator, front-loaders have room to handle a larger laundry load. Many are designed to stack a dryer on top to save on space, and because they spin so much of the water out of the clothes, drying time decreases as well.

A disadvantage of a front-loader is the price, which can be more than twice as much as a traditional top-loading washing machine. It’s high velocity spinning can also cause vibrations that may be disturbing if the washer is near a living area or bedroom.

High-Efficiency Top-Loading Washing Machines

The HE top loaders are the newest creature in the appliance aisle, and thus, has had less time to develop a reputation. These look similar to traditional top-loaders, but work like a front loader in that they have no agitator; they turn and spin to move the laundry through the water. They spin at high speeds to reduce drying time, and use less water and detergent like the front-loader. One advantage over the front-loader is the user won’t have to bend down to get that last sock out of the back.

A typical complaint about these washers is the high spin speed causes clothes to become overly-wrinkled, but the spinning seems to vibrate less than the front-loaders.

Washing Machine Features

Walk though an aisle of new washing machines and you’ll see all sorts of buttons and lights that do different things. Consider some of these features before shopping so you’ll know which ones are important to you in a new washing machine:
Automatic dispensers for detergent, fabric softener, and bleach
Extra rinse cycle (helpful for removing excess detergent for those with sensitive skin)
Automatic temperature control
Manual/dial controls vs. electronic controls
Porcelain lid to resist scratching
Stainless steel or plastic tub to discourage rusting
Steam feature which claims to sanitize
Delay start
Pre-wash or soaking feature

There are an abundance of choices in washing machines today, and each household has different needs. By considering price, advantages, disadvantages, and desired features, families can easily find a washing machine that will work for them.

I have a switch that operates my garbage disposal (with a plug under the sink.) There is also a wall outlet about 14 inches from that said switch.

I want to add two more switches to that switch box, (making a total of 3 switches). One will be used for the under cabinet lighting. The other will be used for the over the sink lighting.

Now, my question is…. HOW do I do that? I know how to install a switch.. but how do I get POWER to the switches. Can I tap into the outlet that is 14 inches away?

Any help would be more than appreciated.
I understand I would have to redo the sheet rock, boxes and fish the wires.

My question is HOW do I get power from the outlet/socket box to the switch. Do I just tap into the hot wire and run the new one over? Do I tap into the hot and ground and run them both over?

I’m trying to install an under cabinet stereo in my kitchen. The screws that attach the stereo are flat machine style screws and all I have is a regular screwdriver, no screw gun or drill. I’m trying to make the pilot holes using a regular pointed wood screw, but it is extremely difficult to screw into the wood because it is a bad angle and because I’m not very strong. Also, I don’t have any screws quite large enough, so I still need to find a way to make the hole slightly larger to fit the machine screws into it.

Any ideas? I just moved in and most of my tools are hidden in boxes somewhere, so I only have some basic tools and no power tools.

I could technically do this using the wood screw but it’s taking me forever and I’m only on the first of four screws! Is there a quicker or easier way? Hope my question was clear, it’s a little hard to describe.

Thanks.
Note: “KevLec” mentioned using the right screws for the job; wood screws. The machine screws I have came with the stereo and screw directly into it. They have very long smooth shanks and then a small amount of fine threading, made to slip through the cylindrical spacers under the cabinet and then hold the stereo in place. I don’t believe a regular wood screw would work. I am trying to use wood screws to create the holes in the cabinet bottom, but the diameter isn’t wide enough. I’m disabled and home-bound, so I’m trying to work with what I have in the house in case anyone is wondering why I don’t just run out to home depot. Thx again!

You Surely Will Need To Plan For A Backsplash As Well Choose The Right Ceramic For Your Backsplash
Kitchen Tile

 

Are you planning a kitchen cabinet and counter redesign in your home? If so, creating the proper backsplash will be a significant part of your final design. After all, backsplash kitchen tile doesn’t just serve as an important design element, it also provides an extra layer of protection for the wall behind your sink, your cook-top and other busy kitchen areas

In order to achieve the greatest amount of protection while also creating the perfect look, it is always a good idea to include ceramic tile in your kitchen cabinet and counter design. In fact, there are many benefits to using ceramic tile. These include…

 

  • Durability

 

  • Availability of a wide variety of colors, designs and textures

 

  • Ease of cleaning

 

When it comes down to it, you should have no problem finding the perfect ceramic tile to fit within your overall kitchen cabinet and counter design. Whether you want your backsplash kitchen tile to blend in with the rest of the wall, to serve as an accent piece, or even to be the focal point of your kitchen, the wide variety of sizes and designs will make it a cinch for you to achieve your ultimate goal.

In order to enjoy all of the benefits of using ceramic as your backsplash kitchen tile, however, you need to keep a few things in mind.

For example, while you may really enjoy the look and feel of a porous or unglazed tile design, this really isn’t the best option for a backsplash. Remember, you will likely need to clean the tile on a regular basis. Therefore, you don’t want to select a tile that will be difficult to clean. This is particularly true when it comes to the tile that you will put behind your cook-top, as food and grease will regularly splash against the tile. If you use porous backsplash kitchen tile, it won’t be long before it becomes permanently stained or discolored.

To avoid experiencing problems with your backsplash kitchen tile, you should include glazed easy-to-clean ceramic tile in your kitchen cabinet and counter design. Be sure to visit many different stores in order to get a good idea of the various designs, colors and styles of tile that is available. This way, you will be certain to choose the tile that is most suitable for the color, design and pattern of cabinet and counter you are planning to install in your kitchen.

First off, this is the same type of under cabinet light I have:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100636002&N=10000003+90401+531134

It comes with a white fluorescent bulb and I absolutely hate the way it looks. All lights in my house have a soothing, yellow-ish glow, but these. I want to change the bulbs to something more soothing, such as a yellow hue like that of the light that goes above a stove, but I’m not having any luck finding them. Anyone know where I can pick some up?

Green Your Shower Curtain

Green Your Shower Curtain

I have to admit, I certainly wasn’t thinking green when I bought my shower curtain a couple years ago.Visit here http://plumbingsupply-copperorg.blogspot.com

I was thinking blue, as in my blue bathroom color scheme. Fortunately, my chic blue-and-white embroidered curtain of choice was made of cotton. But the shower liner reeked of PVC.

Yes, reeked. My bathroom is teeny-tiny, so the liner’s icky, plastic-y odor infiltrated the space within minutes-and lingered. And that’s when I wised up to the dangers of PVC. Here’s why you should too:

The Problem Plastic Revealed
As I mentioned above, that unmistakable stench coming from your shower curtain is polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a (sadly) popular plastic also known as vinyl. PVC is produced with toxic additives that can evaporate or leach out of the product. And it enters your body when you least expect it, whether through inhalation or direct skin or eye contact. This not-so-pleasant plastic has been linked to a slew of nasty health and environmental problems, including cancer, liver damage, and reproductive and immune system problems.

Delightful, eh?

It gets even worse. A recent study by the Center for Health, Environment & Justice, a grassroots environmental organization based in Falls Church, Virginia, revealed disturbing facts about PVC shower curtains-that’s why it’s called Volatile Vinyl. According to the report, PVC shower curtains can release as many as 108 volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) into the air you regularly breathe. What’s more, some of these chemicals were found in the air 28 days after a PVC shower curtain was opened and hung. No wonder I got a headache while putting on makeup in the bathroom each morning. That’s a long time, folks!

End the Toxic Relationship-For Good
So, aside from that unmistakable stench, how can you tell if your shower curtain is made from PVC? Look for a “3″ within the plastic recycling symbol or check to see if there’s a “V” stamped in the plastic.

If you recently purchased a PVC shower curtain, let it air out for a month before hanging it. Or, if you’re in the market for a new shower curtain but haven’t purchased one yet, shop for an eco-friendly cloth version-try organic cotton or linen (just make sure you have good ventilation to ward off mildew). Another option? Hemp is durable and naturally mildew-resistant. Or try recycled polyester plastic. When shopping for liners, opt for one made of nylon.

It’s becoming easier than ever to find non-PVC shower curtains and liners, because many major retailers and manufacturers are pulling the plug on the pesky plastic. IKEA, for example, phased out PVC shower curtains 11 years ago, according to U.S. News & World Report.

Of course, once you set your sights on a newer, healthier shower curtain, another issue arises: getting rid of the old one. PVC shower curtains clog already-full landfills because they don’t break down. And they don’t play well with other plastics, making them a challenge to recycle. Green Daily offers some ideas for putting that old vinyl curtain to good use.Visit here http://plumbingsupply-copperorg.blogspot.com

Hi All!

My husband and I are remodeling our kitchen and just installed under cabinet spotlights. We don’t want to have to nail and/or screw them into the bottom of the cabinet but have run into a little problem. We thought adhesive velco would work, but the lights (hallogen) get hot and melt the glue that holds the velcro and spotlight in place after being turned on for a few minutes, so they fall off.

Does superglue or expoxy glue melt under heat? We’re thinking glue may be a better alternative. We don’t want to nail or screw the lights into the cabinets because the nails or screws will be visible when the door is opened and may interfere with the dishes etc. in the cabinets.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!! :)

Since the introduction of the front-loading washing machine into the North American market their sales have literally exploded. Like most people, you probably bought one because of the suggested savings.

The claims about their efficiency are true. When operated properly you can save energy, water, and money. Plus they do a fabulous job of washing your clothes.

But, using the wrong detergent can quickly destroy any hopes of savings. Along with the front loaders amazing popularity has come a tremendous amount of misunderstanding about the detergent they require.

A front-loading washing machine needs a special detergent. It’s called HE (High Efficiency) detergent. Without HE detergent your washer will not clean properly. Using regular detergent may even cause your front loader mechanical problems.

HE detergent is a type of non-sudsing detergent. In fact, while operating, the machine almost appears not to have any detergent inside.

Unfortunately, we have become so used to seeing suds in our old washing machines that we mistakenly relate the presence of suds to proper operation. Nothing could be farther from the truth.

An old fashioned top loader washes your clothes by constantly tumbling them through a full tub of water. Your front loader works differently.

In a front loader your clothes are picked up by the vanes inside the drum, lifted to the top of the drum, and then dropped into water laying at the bottom of the drum. This collision of clothes and water will dislodge the dirt from the clothing fibers. Later the drum stops turning, the water flows out the bottom of the drum via the pump, taking both water and dirt out to the household drain. Finally the drum is spun at very high speed to remove the final amounts of water, dirt and detergent from the clothes. This front-loading method of cleaning your clothes is both simple and dependable.

But, this simple method stops working if there are too many suds being produced by your laundry detergent.

If you use regular detergent in your front loader excess suds will be produced by the interaction of the detergent and tumbling water. These unwanted suds will accumulate at the bottom of the wash drum where they will lie on top of the water. Within minutes these suds will take the form of a big fluffy cushion. This cushion hinders clothes from reaching the water. As your clothes fall from the top of the drum to the bottom they hit the suds cushion rather than the water. The result is a very poor wash.

Even owners of front loaders who are using the correct detergent can misunderstand how to use it properly. Not seeing any suds they think they require more detergent. They keep increasing the amount used per load until suds finally appear. This can be a costly mistake that again results in a poor wash.

Using too much detergent is as bad as using the wrong detergent. Extreme amount of detergent can produce symptoms such as leaking, vibration, noisy operation, and poor spinning.

If you have been using the wrong detergent (or the proper type incorrectly) in your front load washer try the following suggestions. Run the machine through a number of cycles using hot water. This should help expel the old detergent. It usually takes 3 or 4 cycles to wash away the old detergent accumulated inside the machine. Or add a product that will remove the build-up of old detergent. One such product is called GLISTEN. It is available through most appliance parts wholesalers. Some grocery store chains now include it in their laundry detergent section.

As a matter of fact it is a good idea to use a cleaner such as GLISTEN in your front loader every few months. It is an inexpensive form of regular maintenance. A small amount should also be added to the detergent dispenser drawer to remove any residue from this area.

So if you think your front loader is not working as well as anticipated, look to your laundry detergent. If it does not say HE on the label — switch immediately.

Then purchase a box of the proper HE type detergent and you may be pleasantly surprised.

Our house came prewired for undercabinet lighting and has the super hot halogen lights. I am trying to switch them to LED, All the stores carry are plug-in type, not hardwire. The guy told me just to cut off the plug and wire them. I did, and it worked, however now I have no where to place the ground wire that comes out of the cabinet. Is it ok to leave these ungrounded?